How to Read the Surf Forecast
Sylvia (Noosa Heads, Australia)
How to Read the Surf Forecast & What to Look For.
What makes a great day to surf? Well, that depends on who you ask… For some, any day with a board and water is a win. But for those looking to maximize the quality of their waves, understanding surf conditions can make all the difference. A key part of planning a successful surf session is reading the surf forecast. Knowing how to interpret the forecast allows you to pick the best conditions for your ability and avoid being stuck in subpar conditions.
Surfing is a lot more fun when you plan ahead, and with the right knowledge, you’ll know when and where to paddle out. Let's dive into the essential factors of a surf forecast and learn how to spot the perfect day to hit the water.
How to Read a Surf Forecast
Surf reports might seem complicated at first, especially if you’re new to surfing. But once you understand the key elements, they become a powerful tool for choosing the best waves and improving your surf experience.
Here are the main factors you’ll find in a surf forecast, and what they mean:
Swell Size
Swell size refers to the height of the waves, usually measured in feet or meters. This is the most obvious metric to consider when planning a surf session. Larger swell sizes typically create bigger waves, but this doesn’t always mean better conditions for everyone.
For beginners, waves under 1 meter (about 3 feet) are ideal. These waves are manageable and give new surfers the chance to practice their skills in a controlled environment.
Intermediate and advanced surfers might look for waves in the 1-3 meter range (3-9 feet), which offer a bit more excitement and challenge.
Keep in mind that local beach conditions, such as whether it’s a sand- or reef-break, can also affect how these waves behave. A 2-meter wave at a reef break could feel very different from a 2-meter wave at a sandy beach.
Swell Period
The swell period is one of the most important (and often overlooked) factors in determining wave quality. Measured in seconds, it represents the time between waves in a set. The longer the swell period, the more powerful and well-formed the waves will be.
Short Swell Periods (6-8 seconds): Waves arriving quickly with little rest in between tend to be weaker and choppier. This means they haven’t had time to fully build up energy, resulting in disorganized and smaller waves. These conditions may not be as enjoyable, especially for surfers looking for clean, powerful waves.
Long Swell Periods (10+ seconds): When you see a swell period of 10 seconds or longer, get excited! These waves have traveled farther, gaining strength and energy along the way. Long-period swells tend to produce larger, cleaner, and more predictable waves that break beautifully. These are the ideal conditions for catching smooth, powerful rides. Longer periods often mean fewer waves per set but better overall quality.
Swell Direction
Swell direction is the compass bearing from which the waves are coming. Understanding the direction is key because not every beach faces the same way, and swell can interact differently with the coastline depending on its angle.
For example, if your local beach faces northeast, it might not receive much action from a swell coming in from the south. However, if the swell is coming from the east or northeast, your spot will likely be firing with good waves.
Knowing your beach’s orientation and how it reacts to swells from different directions is a vital skill for any surfer.
Wind Direction
Wind is a big player in determining wave quality. Surf reports usually provide wind direction and speed in degrees or bearing. There are two main wind conditions in surfing:
Offshore Winds: These winds blow from the land out to the sea, helping to hold waves up and form cleaner, smoother faces. Offshore winds are generally preferred by surfers because they create more “glassy” conditions.
Onshore Winds: These blow from the sea towards the shore, causing waves to crumble and become less organized. Surfers typically avoid these conditions, but for those practicing aerials or more advanced maneuvers, onshore winds can sometimes add a fun challenge.
Wind Speed
Even the best wind direction can be ruined by strong gusts. Wind speed plays a critical role in how the waves form.
Speeds below 5 km/h (about 3 mph) are usually perfect for maintaining smooth, glassy waves.
Speeds above 30 km/h (about 20 mph), however, can make the ocean rough, even with offshore winds.
Generally, the early morning tends to offer calmer winds, making it an ideal time to surf.
Tides
Tides vary depending on your local break, and every surf spot has its own ideal tidal conditions. Some beaches fire at high tide, while others work best during low tide. To fully understand how your local spot behaves, spend time surfing it at different tide levels. Eventually, you’ll know exactly when your beach is at its best.
Best Surf Forecasting Sites
To make the most of your surf sessions, having reliable and accurate surf forecasting tools is essential. Here are some of the best surf forecasting sites to help you plan your next surf adventure:
Surfline:
Surfline is known for its live surf cams and in-depth forecasts. It has a free app or a premium subscription, you can access even more detailed analysis, long-range forecasts, and personalized reports for your favorite breaks.Windy:
While not exclusively for surfing, Windy offers excellent wind and wave data. Its interactive map allows you to see real-time wind and swell conditions, making it a great tool for surfers who want to dive deep into the details. Windy is a personal favorite of ours.Swellnet:
Swellnet provides surf forecasts specifically tailored for Australia, with daily reports, detailed swell charts, and live cams at various popular spots. It’s an excellent resource for surfers in Australia.
By utilizing these forecasting sites, you'll be better prepared to find perfect waves, knowing exactly when and where to go based on the conditions.
What Makes a Great Day to Surf?
The perfect surf day is a mix of these elements coming together. Ideally, you want:
A swell size that matches your skill level
A long swell period for clean, powerful waves
A favorable swell direction that works with your beach's orientation
Offshore winds to keep the waves glassy and clean
Low wind speeds for smooth wave faces
The right tide level for your break
Once you understand how to read these factors, you’ll be able to plan surf sessions with confidence and make the most of every wave.
